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本文由W&W专业腕表测评网站出品发条鱼原创翻译To my eyes, the Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is a rather unusual watch from the brand.



To my eyes, the Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is a rather unusual watch from the brand. Though Breguet is often at the cutting edge of watchmaking technology, their watches still retain a very classic and elegant look – case in point: the Breguet Classique Chronometrie Ref. 7727. Unless you knew what you were looking at, you would have never guessed that the watch contains one of the most groundbreaking escapement designs in the entire history of watchmaking. However, the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 isn’t quite like that Classique Chronometrie Ref. 7727. It is quite loud – brash, even – but it is made with the same blend of modern materials and age-old watchmaking techniques that have come to define Breguet today.

在我看来,宝玑航海系列时间等式5887腕表是品牌非常独特的一只腕表。尽管宝玑制表技术一直处于前沿,但他们的手表仍然保留着非常经典和优雅的外观,例如:Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727.除非你本来就知道,否则你绝不会猜到手表包含了整个制表历史上最具开创性的擒纵设计之一。然而,这款航海5887与7727是不尽相同的。5887一个非常大胆的杰作,它由与时俱进的材料和古老的制表技术相结合,这是当今宝玑最大的特点。

For those not familiar with French, the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 has a running equation of time display. Équation Marchante roughly translates to "running equation." In plain speak, it displays the equation of time as a running hand in the form of a secondary minute hand that runs concurrently with the minute hand that shows civil time. The equation of time refers to the discrepancy between true solar time (based on the motion of the actual sun) and mean solar time (civil time) because of the elliptical nature of Earth’s orbit.


In most equation of time watches, the equation of time is shown using a subsidiary dial marked from -16 to +14 minutes – the amount of deviation between true solar time and civil time. As you can see, to tell the true solar time will therefore require a bit of mental calculation, which makes a running equation of time display, such as the one found on the Marine Équation Marchante 5887, more elegant and intuitive.

在大多数时间等式表中,时间等式用标记有-16到+14分钟的小表盘来显示真太阳时和平太阳时之间的偏差量。正如你所看到的,为了显示真太阳时将需要一些精确计算,这使得时间显示的运行方程(例如Marine Echanation Marchante 5887上的显示)更加优雅和直观。

The Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is available in rose gold and platinum. The case is 43.9mm in diameter and measures about 11.5mm thick. It is an imposing case and quite different from other Breguet watches. The case middle features Breguet"s signature fluted case band, but in place of more traditional lugs are angular and dynamic-looking integrated lugs. Perhaps because of the stronger styling, rated water resistance is 100m, which is quite unusual for a highly complicated watch.


The rose gold model, the one we got to handle, features a silvered dial made of gold; while the platinum model comes with a blue dial, also made of gold. The dial is unmistakably Breguet, with an engine-turned dial and an engraved center portion, purposefully done to resemble waves and invoke feelings of the sea. The large gold Roman numeral hour markers sit on a ring of brushed silver and on the top of each marker is a small plot of luminescent material to improve legibility in poorly lit environments.

我们展示的这款是玫瑰金,具有金制银色表盘,而铂金款则配备了蓝色表盘,同样由金制成。 这款表盘毫无疑问是标志性的宝玑表盘,透窗设计表盘中心玑缕刻花装饰,非常形象展示海洋波浪元素。 大号金质罗马数字时标置于镀银的圆环上,并在顶部装饰发光圆点的小时刻度,光线条件不好的环境总也能轻易读时。

There are four central hands, which may seem complicated at first, but it is actually quite simple once you learn what they are for. The two large Breguet-style 18k gold hands with luminescent plots indicate the regular hours and minutes. The other large hand tipped with a circle that represents the sun is the secondary minute hand that shows the running equation of time. Finally, the smallest hand that is shaped like an anchor shows the date using a retrograde date display. The day and month are displayed using two apertures at 10:30 and 1:30 respectively.

表盘有四根指针,乍一眼看上去可能会特别复杂,不过你要是搞清楚这些指针是用来干嘛的就很简单了。 两个采用发光材质的18K金宝玑开口针就是正常的小时和分钟显示。另一个用一个圆圈表示太阳的指针则用于显示时间等式。 最后,装饰有锚型图案的最小的逆跳指针就是日期显示。日期和月份分别在10:30和1:30用两个窗口显示。

To the bottom right of the dial, we have a sapphire disc that provides a window to the tourbillon within. But look carefully and you will see that there is a component shaped like a kidney. This is the cam that controls the equation of time mechanism. Look closer still and you will see that the sapphire disc is engraved with the months of the year. Finally, at 7 o’clock there is an inconspicuous power reserve indicator that is easy to miss if you didn’t look carefully.

在表盘的右下方,嵌有一块蓝宝石镜面,就像为内部的陀飞轮安上一扇窗户。但如果仔细看,你会看到有一个像人体的肾一样的组件。 这是控制时间等式功能的凸轮。 仔细观察,你会发现蓝宝石镜面上刻有一年的月份。 最后,7点还有一个不显眼的动力储备指示,如果你不仔细看,很容易就会漏掉。

The movement within is the self-winding Caliber 581DPE and it has a number of technical highlights. To begin, thanks to the use of silicon components in the escapement and an ultra-light titanium tourbillon cage, the tourbillon beats at 4Hz. Additionally, to allow owners to fully enjoy and admire the intricate decoration of the movement, Caliber 581DPE employs the use of a solid platinum peripheral rotor. Power reserve is 80 hours. The bridges of the movement have been painstakingly hand-engraved with the Royal Louis, though which one I’m not too sure. The name "Royal Louis" is typically the name given to the largest ship in the Royal French Navy.

机芯搭载自动上链机芯Calibre 581DPE,它有许多技术亮点。首先,得益于硅质擒纵轮和超轻钛陀飞轮,陀飞轮才能以4Hz的速度跳动。 此外,为了让佩戴者充分享受和欣赏机芯的复杂装饰,Calibre 581DPE采用坚固的铂金摆轮。动力储备是80个小时。机芯的夹板桥精心雕刻有皇家路易斯,虽然我不太确定。“皇家路易”这个名字通常是法国皇家海军最大的船只的名字。

All in all, I see the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 as a divisive watch from Breguet. Its technical achievements are noteworthy, but its styling will almost certainly not appeal to traditionalists. Still, one cannot fault them for trying, and I find the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 to be a refreshing break from Breguet’s more classically styled pieces. The Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is priced at $215,000 in rose gold and $230,400 in platinum.







腕表学家、《名表手边书》《顶级名表》作者;硬核机狮,腕表量化评估创始人,专答#这表怎么样?B站“腕表流行力”;抖音“亨利表哥”Quality intelligence communicates...今天说的这款表是宝玑2022年的新品之一



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